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STUPID JOURNEY # 3

 

BON MOT

Welcome to this overdue-as-usual third edition of my Stupid Journey. Its route to completion was almost as circuitous as the trip itself.

First of all, this is not the promised tour zine - that will now have to wait for SJ4 (?) This is the tale of my bicycle journey, during the 2002 heat wave, from Ottawa to Toronto. The trajectory was supposed to be MONTREAL to Toronto, and it was supposed to happen in May, but SNOW and general chaos put me off.

Politniks will be disappointed - though my journey starts at the G8 demos in Ottawa, my journal starts the day after they ended; so this isn't one of those cries de coeur about capitalist rot that you all enjoy so much. And while there will be more of that in the future, this was deliberate too: a life spent bearing placards quickly becomes unexamined, and while the ideal is of course to strike a balance between political convictions and personal space, shleps like me must be content to see-saw...

map

The mode of travel is also quite a novelty; I haven't gone bicycling like this since 1996. Back then this kind of thing was my meat - rough, nature-based, solitary. Because of this, the narrative is very much introverted and individualistic, just me and my thoughts and visions. Just what I needed, too.

I'm also playing some formal games. The text is ALL journal excerpts, so it's a lot more impressionistic and unmediated than # 1 and 2. Also, this time I brought a camera - thanks to David Rubinoff for inadvertently facilitating this. So it's image-and-commentary all the way.

Something new - I hope you like. - JC

 

So why am I doing this again? Because it's time to do oneathese; it's time physically because I'm a wreck; it's time emotionally because I've been all plan-plan-plan for fucking ever; it's time spiritually because I need to prove that my 30s can actually build off my 20s rather than disowning them...

Thinking it'll take some trying to extend this to a 12-day trip. I'm not above trying.

Fri. June 28

I woke up at 5...couldn't sleep; so I read all of 'Krapp's Last Tape' - witty and wise! - played a lot of that destroy-everything video game, and forgot to write a goodbye note...

Left Ottawa at 10 am today, hugging Bennett & Zoe goodbye behind Indymedia (which was as mellow as the rest of the demo - which was a relief for a change.)

Beautiful trail by the Ottawa River...then it got complicated. Then it disappeared - shoulder time. Then I got rather confused about where I was going (what a surprise)...even did some offroad, which was lucky but mucky...zigged when I should have zagged several times...and then lo, I figured out where the hell I was...

I didn't even know I was looking for Almonte, but the big stone mill and big stone everything else meant: ice cream time. Next scenic enclave I see is host to my FOURTH joint today (time: 4:53 pm). Lots left.

Eyes salty & sticky, odd patches of arm & calf burnt all to hell. Bike works great, load is insane. As ever...

We are in the "rolling hills" scenario - lots of hard uphill pedlin', balanced if not equaled by majestic descents. The Almonte info guy dispensed great wisdom in the form of a map with all the side roads listed; as soon as I could I got off the 'highway' and scooted around the unpaved diagonals, largely carless hick utopii.

Around 8 decided to make an early dive; found a laneway and charged in; to my shock this led into a virtual pit, a low-set flat area obscured from road view. The clearing of trees had barely begun, making a nice little alcove for cooking and...sleeping? So I thought - but then I heard footfalls and grunts from the foliage; then I swear I saw a bull staring at me through the branches. Maybe it was the sudden impact of joint #5, but I got out pronto. Maybe I forgot stuff.

Oh yeah, food: lotsa ryvita & tahini, two fruit rollups, good cauliflower powder soup (it's like cream of chicken!), some nuts. I repeat: FIVE joints. Biking is righting my body chemistry!

Sat. June 29

Woke up too early - 5 am! - thanks to general paranoia, mosquito paranoia, my fucked-up back, and something evil that was running around and going "Chat! Chat! Chat!" in the undergrowth nearby. Packed it in to Lanark, which was just a tad down the road...Ate a lot and read a bit ('The Leopard'), down by the bridge over the creek....

My bike is proving up to the task. BUT - I wish I knew how to correct this fucking auto-derailleur. It's being bossy during switch-ups, and it's grinding in second.

...the mystery highway of desolation was leading me to friendly Ompah and their minuscule "public beach!" I found a great majestic pit/clearing across the road to change in, and then charged back to test the luke-frigid water...felt great after being scorched all day.

Sunday, June 30

There was some weird shit going on last night where the leaves were constantly dripping water on my tent even though it was not raining. Moist in these parts? That explain the mosquitos? Happy Canada Day.

Smoking-up locale...a gorgeous go-swimming turnoff past Denbigh...kid and dad quietly pull boat off trailer, then mom comes out and she talks a lot, in accusatory blasts: what if the boat leaks! Your life jacket's on wrong! Paddle together! I'll let you take care of that! Dad & son were clearly ignoring her...
Today I did a lot of walking up hills, although there was a good supply of downs - including one phenomenal 12% grade that would not end, I had to break constantly for fear of going whomp if the works came undone. Which by midday they were: screw out of rack (had to twist a tent peg to fix it), resultant drag on wheel from bungees, bulge in tool pocket reaching spokes, tent bundle a huge, tenuous mess etc. etc. And yet all holds together.
Not too many "towns" today - Vannachar, Denbigh, Hardwod Lake, McArthurs Mills, all had one store to their name if they were lucky. HL was home to my dinner - damn I wanted some complex carbs, but the grilled cheese sandwich filled me up and the ice cream made me happy. I'll angle for real food in Bancroft.
Looking at the map, I realize that I have many options; ride to Haliburton and give the rail trail a go (but the outcome seems dicey), visit Leigh (wherever exactly her house is), go to Petroglyphs (tempting but 20km out of the way). So Bancroft is going to be a site of research as well as breakfast. But damn - won't the libraries be closed on Canada Day Monday? Arrrgh.

I'm camped right next to the highway at York River, presumably the big blue squiggle on the map not far from...Bancroft! I'm invisible from the road, but some car just pulled in and out, so now I get to be paranoid more.

And let us not forget angsty - about what is waiting for me when I get back, about what isn't waiting, about Stuff In General. I miss Siue...

Monday, July 1

True to calculation, I was maybe 45 minutes out of Bancroft. Locking my bike up and wobbling around (spindly biker leggies!) I thought: am I missing something? Is this ugly commercial strip really 'downtown?' Am I reduced to eating at fucking Best Western?

Yup. As all these little mosquito bites started more and more to resemble the beginning stages of poison ive (ah, such memories), I dealt with the waitress, who was young and earnestly nice...and I suspected she was getting bugged by two successive customers at the window table - first the predictable full-service geezers who wished they were the bourgeoisie, then a guy with a Ralph Klein chin and a cute toddler who seemed to be mocking her with every word...when I left she said 'it was nice meeting you.' We did not exchange one word that wasn't related to my order. Little girl, gotta get away, get the hell out of Bancroft!

TWO Eels Creek swimming holes on Hwy 28, which it hugs most of the way down. Babbling brook time - the swims were short but - as the temp rounds the bend toward 35 C, the probably peak of a piss-hot week - they were positively orgasmic! As one guy said to me at the second stop - which was developed, with toileds! - unlike the first which was just a dirt driveway - "Best stop in the world"...my syntax is deteriorating, help!

My legs will be happy to give out if asked, and this crazy burning pain in my left shoulder...

The "NEW OWNERS" at the variety store just got back from 4 years in Inuvik. Girl asked if the owner had been to Toronto yet, and she said no a dozen ways. Outside, the girl said, "I love Toronto." Go girl! Out, out, out!

I AM AHEAD OF SCHEDULE BY LIKE A WEEK.

Tues. July 2

Some really weird dreams; in one I tried to suck off Swamp Dogg; it was a drag, but I stopped because I realized we were on the streets in Chinatown, surrounded by riot cops! One chased us up and down an escalator before chastising me for pissing in the street. While we were debating she turned into a Chinese restaurateur with a paper bag; our conversation was interrupted by the upper-floor screams of a 12-year-old prostitute, causing everyone to burst into tears.

Later, I'm in a boxcar and in the army, and when I enter my berth it's a restaurant with a place for me at the table. Sarah V is there, she says she went to a 'veggie' Thai place that used ground-up fish ankles (!) A guy comes in to access his apartment, and no one can remember his name, which leads to nonsense baby talk.  Matias shows up outside the window with a sling; he says he told his commanding officer, "I have human rights!" and be beat him up and he landed in this tree and didn't recover for months.

OK, I cannot possibly do justice to the petroglyphs, so I won't even try. No fruity poetry, not one word. Nothing. Petroglyphs.

The poison ivy is still not spreading, though the wounds look pretty ripe. Maybe I'll get a break, Lord...The hills were more severe but not that bad; the WIND fucking however was right in my face wherever I turned. If it were in another direction - like uh my BACK - it would have been a relief, cos it's another 35 C humidex-warning smog-warning mother fucker, and today I'm feeling it.

Once I "passed" Burleigh Falls, which does not exist, I stopped on a rock to recharge, and a "Community Christian Newspaper" van pulled over and I thought oh fuck...but instead it was a very cool woman with implacable (Scandinavian?) accent who apparently left her husband to bike to Manitoulin Island with a 100-pound trailer. But she had been staying behind the church in Burleigh Falls - so I guess it does exist! - and now she says she might stay! Anyway she gave me strawberry yogurt, whoo!

Buckhorn: first stop light since the Ottawa burbs! Got a decent veggie burger with very bad onion rings and I could barely stomach it. I'm feeling like I could live on simple meals - fruit and juice especially - for frickin ever...Hey maybe I'm not getting poison ivy after all, it's not spreading...

Night riding is great, cool and fun, but not optimal for enjoying the scenery and basically ill-advised on a dirt trail - with encroaching branches yet. For some reason I COULD NOT get to sleep - and when I woke up the bugs were asleep! Balanced somewhat by condensation dripping on me and pooling in the end of the tent.

The bike to Lindsay was swampy and beyootiful. Got directions from a guy at the Kwik-Mart whom I venture hates tourists and was trying to fuck with my head. At Parks & Rec I got a briefing (and map) on a rail trail...then, at the library, I got a refreshing dip in my email...and then the disastrous news that Bruiser, our cat, is dead.

Lindsay is so fucking beautiful I could almost live there...the most overbearing preponderance of commemorative plaques I have ever seen. There's one every five feet, about WWII, architecture, some sister city in Japan...

Took off ca. 11 am and headed for the rail trail. This started out blissful but quickly became a big ass drag. First big rocks, then pockets of sand...eventually I was hardly moving and my gimpy shoulder was on fire. Was also offended by the snowmobile club warning signs, which declared their undivided dominion over this piece of public access. Fuck em all. Left the trail...got a face full of hills before roaring into exotic Sunderland...decided yes I WOULD try to get all the way home today.

I was astonished how quickly I made it to Hwy-7-to-Markham. Stopped for water at an awful gas station with minimal pride-of-toilet and a very obnoxious deadwood attendant...I couldn't quite believe how far out of Toronto I still was - still small towns (under the smothering blanket of Pickering), still just endless highway. Still hilly too...then on down Markham Rd. Ah! Weston! Finch! Sheppard! Plus, by this time, pitch darkness...my arm felt like it would fall off...I was freaked out by all the people (lots of purty girls), the cars, the impossible continuity between town and country, the crazy rigours of my physical endurance on this relatively short bike odyssey.

Then I got home - and didn't buy pot for almost 24 hours! The end.

 

Satan Macnuggit Popular Arts, 291 Ossington Avenue #6, Toronto ON M6J 3A1
jc (at) satanmacnuggit dot com