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BON
MOT
Welcome
to this overdue-as-usual third edition of my Stupid Journey.
Its route to completion was almost as circuitous as the trip
itself.
First
of all, this is not the promised tour zine - that will now
have to wait for SJ4 (?) This is the tale of my bicycle journey,
during the 2002 heat wave, from Ottawa to Toronto. The trajectory
was supposed to be MONTREAL to Toronto, and it was supposed
to happen in May, but SNOW and general chaos put me off.
Politniks
will be disappointed - though my journey starts at the G8
demos in Ottawa, my journal starts the day after they ended;
so this isn't one of those cries de coeur about capitalist
rot that you all enjoy so much. And while there will be more
of that in the future, this was deliberate too: a life spent
bearing placards quickly becomes unexamined, and while the
ideal is of course to strike a balance between political convictions
and personal space, shleps like me must be content to see-saw...

The
mode of travel is also quite a novelty; I haven't gone bicycling
like this since 1996. Back then this kind of thing was my
meat - rough, nature-based, solitary. Because of this, the
narrative is very much introverted and individualistic, just
me and my thoughts and visions. Just what I needed, too.
I'm
also playing some formal games. The text is ALL journal excerpts,
so it's a lot more impressionistic and unmediated than # 1
and 2. Also, this time I brought a camera - thanks to David
Rubinoff for inadvertently facilitating this. So it's image-and-commentary
all the way.
Something
new - I hope you like. - JC
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So
why am I doing this again? Because it's time to do oneathese;
it's time physically because I'm a wreck; it's time emotionally
because I've been all plan-plan-plan for fucking ever; it's
time spiritually because I need to prove that my 30s can
actually build off my 20s rather than disowning them...
Thinking
it'll take some trying to extend this to a 12-day trip.
I'm not above trying. |
| Fri.
June 28
I
woke up at 5...couldn't sleep; so I read all of 'Krapp's
Last Tape' - witty and wise! - played a lot of that destroy-everything
video game, and forgot to write a goodbye note...
Left
Ottawa at 10 am today, hugging Bennett & Zoe goodbye
behind Indymedia (which was as mellow as the rest of the
demo - which was a relief for a change.) |
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Beautiful
trail by the Ottawa River...then it got complicated. Then
it disappeared - shoulder time. Then I got rather confused
about where I was going (what a surprise)...even did some
offroad, which was lucky but mucky...zigged when I should
have zagged several times...and then lo, I figured out where
the hell I was... |
| I
didn't even know I was looking for Almonte, but the big
stone mill and big stone everything else meant: ice cream
time. Next scenic enclave I see is host to my FOURTH joint
today (time: 4:53 pm). Lots left.
Eyes
salty & sticky, odd patches of arm & calf burnt
all to hell. Bike works great, load is insane. As ever...
We
are in the "rolling hills" scenario - lots of
hard uphill pedlin', balanced if not equaled by majestic
descents. The Almonte info guy dispensed great wisdom in
the form of a map with all the side roads listed; as soon
as I could I got off the 'highway' and scooted around the
unpaved diagonals, largely carless hick utopii. |
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Around
8 decided to make an early dive; found a laneway and charged
in; to my shock this led into a virtual pit, a low-set flat
area obscured from road view. The clearing of trees had
barely begun, making a nice little alcove for cooking and...sleeping?
So I thought - but then I heard footfalls and grunts from
the foliage; then I swear I saw a bull staring at me through
the branches. Maybe it was the sudden impact of joint #5,
but I got out pronto. Maybe I forgot stuff.
Oh
yeah, food: lotsa ryvita & tahini, two fruit rollups,
good cauliflower powder soup (it's like cream of chicken!),
some nuts. I repeat: FIVE joints. Biking is righting my
body chemistry! |
| Sat.
June 29
Woke
up too early - 5 am! - thanks to general paranoia, mosquito
paranoia, my fucked-up back, and something evil that was
running around and going "Chat! Chat! Chat!" in
the undergrowth nearby. Packed it in to Lanark, which was
just a tad down the road...Ate a lot and read a bit ('The
Leopard'), down by the bridge over the creek....
My
bike is proving up to the task. BUT - I wish I knew how
to correct this fucking auto-derailleur. It's being bossy
during switch-ups, and it's grinding in second. |
|
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...the
mystery highway of desolation was leading me to friendly Ompah
and their minuscule "public beach!" I found a great
majestic pit/clearing across the road to change in, and then
charged back to test the luke-frigid water...felt great after
being scorched all day. |
| Sunday,
June 30
There
was some weird shit going on last night where the leaves
were constantly dripping water on my tent even though it
was not raining. Moist in these parts? That explain the
mosquitos? Happy Canada Day. |
 |
| |
Smoking-up
locale...a gorgeous go-swimming turnoff past Denbigh...kid
and dad quietly pull boat off trailer, then mom comes out
and she talks a lot, in accusatory blasts: what if the boat
leaks! Your life jacket's on wrong! Paddle together! I'll
let you take care of that! Dad & son were clearly ignoring
her... |
| Today
I did a lot of walking up hills, although there was a good
supply of downs - including one phenomenal 12% grade that
would not end, I had to break constantly for fear of going
whomp if the works came undone. Which by midday they were:
screw out of rack (had to twist a tent peg to fix it), resultant
drag on wheel from bungees, bulge in tool pocket reaching
spokes, tent bundle a huge, tenuous mess etc. etc. And yet
all holds together. |
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Not
too many "towns" today - Vannachar, Denbigh, Hardwod
Lake, McArthurs Mills, all had one store to their name if
they were lucky. HL was home to my dinner - damn I wanted
some complex carbs, but the grilled cheese sandwich filled
me up and the ice cream made me happy. I'll angle for real
food in Bancroft. |
| Looking
at the map, I realize that I have many options; ride to
Haliburton and give the rail trail a go (but the outcome
seems dicey), visit Leigh (wherever exactly her house is),
go to Petroglyphs (tempting but 20km out of the way). So
Bancroft is going to be a site of research as well as breakfast.
But damn - won't the libraries be closed on Canada Day Monday?
Arrrgh. |
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I'm
camped right next to the highway at York River, presumably
the big blue squiggle on the map not far from...Bancroft!
I'm invisible from the road, but some car just pulled in
and out, so now I get to be paranoid more.
And
let us not forget angsty - about what is waiting for me
when I get back, about what isn't waiting, about Stuff In
General. I miss Siue... |
| Monday,
July 1
True
to calculation, I was maybe 45 minutes out of Bancroft.
Locking my bike up and wobbling around (spindly biker leggies!)
I thought: am I missing something? Is this ugly commercial
strip really 'downtown?' Am I reduced to eating at fucking
Best Western?
Yup.
As all these little mosquito bites started more and more
to resemble the beginning stages of poison ive (ah, such
memories), I dealt with the waitress, who was young and
earnestly nice...and I suspected she was getting bugged
by two successive customers at the window table - first
the predictable full-service geezers who wished they were
the bourgeoisie, then a guy with a Ralph Klein chin and
a cute toddler who seemed to be mocking her with every word...when
I left she said 'it was nice meeting you.' We did not exchange
one word that wasn't related to my order. Little girl, gotta
get away, get the hell out of Bancroft! |
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TWO
Eels Creek swimming holes on Hwy 28, which it hugs most
of the way down. Babbling brook time - the swims were short
but - as the temp rounds the bend toward 35 C, the probably
peak of a piss-hot week - they were positively orgasmic!
As one guy said to me at the second stop - which was developed,
with toileds! - unlike the first which was just a dirt driveway
- "Best stop in the world"...my syntax is deteriorating,
help!
My
legs will be happy to give out if asked, and this crazy
burning pain in my left shoulder... |
| The
"NEW OWNERS" at the variety store just got back
from 4 years in Inuvik. Girl asked if the owner had been
to Toronto yet, and she said no a dozen ways. Outside, the
girl said, "I love Toronto." Go girl! Out, out,
out!
I
AM AHEAD OF SCHEDULE BY LIKE A WEEK. |
|
| |
Tues.
July 2
Some
really weird dreams; in one I tried to suck off Swamp Dogg;
it was a drag, but I stopped because I realized we were
on the streets in Chinatown, surrounded by riot cops! One
chased us up and down an escalator before chastising me
for pissing in the street. While we were debating she turned
into a Chinese restaurateur with a paper bag; our conversation
was interrupted by the upper-floor screams of a 12-year-old
prostitute, causing everyone to burst into tears.
Later,
I'm in a boxcar and in the army, and when I enter my berth
it's a restaurant with a place for me at the table. Sarah
V is there, she says she went to a 'veggie' Thai place that
used ground-up fish ankles (!) A guy comes in to access
his apartment, and no one can remember his name, which leads
to nonsense baby talk. Matias shows up outside the
window with a sling; he says he told his commanding officer,
"I have human rights!" and be beat him up and
he landed in this tree and didn't recover for months. |
| OK,
I cannot possibly do justice to the petroglyphs, so I won't
even try. No fruity poetry, not one word. Nothing. Petroglyphs. |
|
| |
The
poison ivy is still not spreading, though the wounds look
pretty ripe. Maybe I'll get a break, Lord...The hills were
more severe but not that bad; the WIND fucking however was
right in my face wherever I turned. If it were in another
direction - like uh my BACK - it would have been a relief,
cos it's another 35 C humidex-warning smog-warning mother
fucker, and today I'm feeling it.
Once
I "passed" Burleigh Falls, which does not exist,
I stopped on a rock to recharge, and a "Community Christian
Newspaper" van pulled over and I thought oh fuck...but
instead it was a very cool woman with implacable (Scandinavian?)
accent who apparently left her husband to bike to Manitoulin
Island with a 100-pound trailer. But she had been staying
behind the church in Burleigh Falls - so I guess it does
exist! - and now she says she might stay! Anyway she gave
me strawberry yogurt, whoo! |
| Buckhorn:
first stop light since the Ottawa burbs! Got a decent veggie
burger with very bad onion rings and I could barely stomach
it. I'm feeling like I could live on simple meals - fruit
and juice especially - for frickin ever...Hey maybe I'm
not getting poison ivy after all, it's not spreading... |
 |
| |
Night
riding is great, cool and fun, but not optimal for enjoying
the scenery and basically ill-advised on a dirt trail -
with encroaching branches yet. For some reason I COULD NOT
get to sleep - and when I woke up the bugs were asleep!
Balanced somewhat by condensation dripping on me and pooling
in the end of the tent.
The
bike to Lindsay was swampy and beyootiful. Got directions
from a guy at the Kwik-Mart whom I venture hates tourists
and was trying to fuck with my head. At Parks & Rec
I got a briefing (and map) on a rail trail...then, at the
library, I got a refreshing dip in my email...and then the
disastrous news that Bruiser, our cat, is dead.
Lindsay
is so fucking beautiful I could almost live there...the
most overbearing preponderance of commemorative plaques
I have ever seen. There's one every five feet, about WWII,
architecture, some sister city in Japan... |
| Took
off ca. 11 am and headed for the rail trail. This started
out blissful but quickly became a big ass drag. First big
rocks, then pockets of sand...eventually I was hardly moving
and my gimpy shoulder was on fire. Was also offended by
the snowmobile club warning signs, which declared their
undivided dominion over this piece of public access. Fuck
em all. Left the trail...got a face full of hills before
roaring into exotic Sunderland...decided yes I WOULD try
to get all the way home today. |
|
|
I
was astonished how quickly I made it to Hwy-7-to-Markham.
Stopped for water at an awful gas station with minimal pride-of-toilet
and a very obnoxious deadwood attendant...I couldn't quite
believe how far out of Toronto I still was - still small
towns (under the smothering blanket of Pickering), still
just endless highway. Still hilly too...then on down Markham
Rd. Ah! Weston! Finch! Sheppard! Plus, by this time, pitch
darkness...my arm felt like it would fall off...I was freaked
out by all the people (lots of purty girls), the cars, the
impossible continuity between town and country, the crazy
rigours of my physical endurance on this relatively short
bike odyssey.
Then
I got home - and didn't buy pot for almost 24 hours! The
end. |
|
| Satan
Macnuggit Popular Arts, 291 Ossington Avenue #6, Toronto ON M6J
3A1
jc (at) satanmacnuggit dot com |
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